Full disclosure
Everything in it, and why
Most ingredient pages are written by a marketing department and maintained by nobody. That is why they drift out of sync with the product inside a year. Ours reads straight out of the same data that builds every product page. It is longer and less reassuring than a two-word claim. It is also checkable, which is the more durable kind of reassurance.
A note on the schema. INCI is the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — the Latin-and-chemistry naming standard that lets a dermatologist in Chennai and a regulator in Brussels know they are discussing the same molecule. “Shea butter” is a marketing name. Butyrospermum Parkii is the thing. Where an ingredient has an INCI name, we give it. Where it does not — a wooden stick, a cotton wick — we say what it is in English.
Where it comes from
Named places, not “ethically sourced”. A place can be checked; an adjective cannot.
- Andhra Pradesh
- Rice Bran Oil
- Chikmagalur
- Coffee Infusion · Ground Coffee
- Coconut shell
- Activated Charcoal
- Coimbatore
- Aloe Vera Pulp
- Erode
- Turmeric
- Ghana
- Unrefined Shea Butter
- Idukki
- Vanilla Extract
- Kannauj
- Rose Absolute
- Kashmir
- Rosemary Oil
- Kerala
- Coconut Cream · Coconut Oil · Lemongrass Oil
- Khewra
- Himalayan Pink Salt
- Mahabaleshwar
- Strawberry Powder
- Nagpur
- Ground Orange Peel · Sweet Orange Oil
- Provence
- French Clay
- Rajasthan
- Multani Mitti
- Sundarbans
- Beeswax · Raw Honey
- Tamil Nadu
- Neem Oil
The index
Grouped by what the ingredient does. Every entry names the formulations it appears in, so you can go from curious to the actual bar without a search.
The base — oils and butters9
Every bar starts here. These decide whether it is hard or soft, whether it lathers, and whether it leaves your skin feeling looked after or stripped. Nothing else in the formulation can rescue a bad base.
Coconut Oil
Cocos Nucifera
Kerala
Lather.
In Orange Whip, Vanilla Whip, Coffee Whip, Rose Whip and 21 more.
Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii
Emollient.
In Orange Whip, Vanilla Whip, Coffee Whip, Rose Whip and 10 more.
Rice Bran Oil
Oryza Sativa
Andhra Pradesh
Conditioning.
In Tea Tree Charcoal, Neem & Turmeric, Papaya Orange Peel, Carrot Beetroot and 7 more.
Glycerin
Glycerin
Clarity, humectant. Clarity.
In Pop Sticks, Donuts, Cake Slice, Croissant and 5 more.
Unrefined Shea Butter
Butyrospermum Parkii
Ghana
20% — deeply emollient. 20% — emollient. Extra, stirred in off the heat.
In Oats & Honey Shea, Coffee Shea, Coconut Cream Shea, Lion and 4 more.
Castor Oil
Ricinus Communis
Stabilises the whip.
In Orange Whip, Vanilla Whip, Coffee Whip, Rose Whip and 1 more.
Sweet Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis
Cocoa Butter
Theobroma Cacao
Rich emollient.
In Coffee.
Coconut Cream
Cocos Nucifera
Kerala
Rich, milky lather.
Salts and minerals2
Rock salt from Khewra and Epsom. They soften the water, carry the oils into it, and do the actual work of a long soak.
Epsom Salt
Magnesium Sulphate
Himalayan Pink Salt
Sodium Chloride
Khewra
Clays and carbons4
Four thousand years of putting earth on skin, in three grades of force. Multani Mitti is the decisive one. French pink clay is the polite one. Charcoal sits between them.
Activated Charcoal
Carbo Activatus
Coconut shell
Draws out impurities. natural colour, a trace.
Multani Mitti
Solum Fullonum
Rajasthan
Strong oil absorption. 100% — strong oil absorption.
Rose Clay
Kaolin
French Clay
Kaolin
Provence
Draws impurities, very gentle.
In French Clay.
Aromatics — oils and absolutes10
Steam-distilled and solvent-extracted, bought by origin rather than by price. This is the most expensive column in our costing sheet and the first thing you notice.
Fragrance Blend
Rose Absolute
Rosa Damascena
Kannauj
Sweet Orange Oil
Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil
Nagpur
Fragrance, brightening. Fragrance.
In Orange, Orange Whip.
Coffee Infusion
Coffea Arabica
Chikmagalur
Fragrance, tone.
In Coffee Whip.
Eucalyptus Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus
Opens the chest.
In Rosemary.
Lemongrass Oil
Cymbopogon Flexuosus
Kerala
Fragrance, astringent.
In Lemongrass.
Rosemary Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis
Kashmir
Clarifying, circulation.
In Rosemary.
Strawberry Powder
Fragaria Ananassa
Mahabaleshwar
Fragrance, colour.
In Strawberry Whip.
Vanilla Extract
Vanilla Planifolia
Idukki
Fragrance.
In Vanilla Whip.
Vetiver Root
Vetiveria Zizanioides
Cooling base note.
In Lemongrass.
Botanicals and texture6
The things you can see in the bar and feel on your skin. Dried, ground or folded in whole — never a printed image of a leaf.
Ground Coffee
Coffea Arabica
Chikmagalur
Exfoliant, circulation. Mild exfoliant.
In Coffee, Coffee Shea.
Dried Orange Peel
Botanical, texture.
In Orange.
Dried Rosemary
Botanical.
In Rosemary.
Ground Orange Peel
Citrus Sinensis Peel
Nagpur
Mild physical exfoliant.
Papaya Pulp
Carica Papaya
Papain — gentle enzymatic exfoliation.
Rose Petals
Botanical, colour.
In Rose.
Actives14
The ingredients that are there to do something specific, and about which we try to make specific rather than sweeping claims.
Glycerin Soap Base
Sodium Cocoate, Glycerin, Aqua
The base we melt — glycerin-rich, kind to skin.
In Tea Tree Charcoal, Neem & Turmeric, Papaya Orange Peel, Carrot Beetroot and 7 more.
Shea Butter Soap Base
Butyrospermum Parkii, Glycerin, Aqua
Turmeric
Curcuma Longa
Erode
Anti-inflammatory, tone. natural colour, from Erode.
In Neem & Turmeric, Lion, Giraffe.
Aloe Vera Pulp
Aloe Barbadensis
Coimbatore
Soothing, hydrating. 96% — soothing, cooling, hydrating.
Beetroot Juice
Beta Vulgaris
Natural pigment, antioxidant.
In Carrot Beetroot.
Carrot Seed Oil
Daucus Carota
Beta-carotene, regenerative.
In Carrot Beetroot.
Colloidal Oats
Avena Sativa
Calms irritation, mild scrub.
Cucumber Juice
Cucumis Sativus
Cooling, astringent.
In Aloe Cucumber.
Neem Oil
Azadirachta Indica
Tamil Nadu
Antibacterial, calming.
In Neem & Turmeric.
Preservative
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Because a water gel without one grows mould in a week.
In Aloe Vera Gel.
Raw Honey
Mel
Sundarbans
Humectant, antibacterial.
Spirulina
natural colour.
In Pacifier.
Tea Tree Oil
Melaleuca Alternifolia
Antibacterial, clarifying.
Xanthan Gum
Xanthan Gum
Thickens it. Otherwise it is water..
In Aloe Vera Gel.
Waxes and wicks3
Soy and beeswax. Never paraffin, which is a petroleum by-product and burns like one.
Beeswax
Cera Alba
Sundarbans
Cotton Wick
Soy Wax
Glycine Soja
Colour1
Most of our colour is the ingredient itself — beetroot, turmeric, charcoal, carrot. Where a shape needs a colour the vegetable cannot give it, we use cosmetic-grade mica and say so.
Mica
CI 77019
Cosmetic-grade colour.
In Pop Sticks, Donuts, Cake Slice, Croissant and 5 more.
The other list
What we never use
An exclusion list is only worth reading if it costs the writer something. Two of these cost us money. One of them contains an admission.
No sls and sles
Sodium lauryl sulphate makes an enormous lather very cheaply, and at the concentration required to do so it is drying. It is not poison and we are not going to pretend it is. We get the lather from coconut oil and castor instead, which costs more and behaves better.
No parabens
A bar of soap is alkaline, and that is a hostile place for a microbe to try to live. It does not need a preservative, so it does not have one. This is a fact about the formulation rather than a virtue — a water-based lotion would need something, and if we ever make one, we will tell you what.
No palm oil
This one costs us real money. Palm makes a harder, cheaper, more reliable bar than rice bran and coconut do, and every soapmaker who has dropped it knows exactly what they gave up. We think the deforestation arithmetic settles it. RSPO-certified palm exists and we have looked at it more than once.
No synthetic fragrance in the soaps and salts
Essential oils and absolutes only, bought by origin. It is why the Rose costs what it does — rose absolute runs to roughly a hundred times the price of a rose fragrance oil. The candles are the exception and we say so on the right, because we would rather be exact than clean.
No animal testing
Not by us, and not by anyone we buy from. We are a small soap company in India; there is no plausible reason for a bar of soap to be tested on an animal, and no version of this where the claim is difficult to make.
No mineral oil and paraffin
Both are petroleum fractions. Paraffin is the standard candle wax because it is cheap and takes scent well; it also burns dirtier. We pour soy and beeswax, which cost more, tunnel more readily, and are worth it.
What we mean by chemical free
The whole industry uses the phrase and almost nobody defines it. So here is ours, in full: the six things listed above are not in anything we make. No sulphates, no parabens, no palm oil, no synthetic fragrance in the soaps and salts, no mineral oil or paraffin, and nothing tested on an animal.
That is a list you can hold us to, which is the only kind worth printing. Every ingredient we do use is named above with its INCI name — the one on the regulator’s list, not the one that sounds nicest — so you can check the claim rather than take it.
Allergen note: several formulations carry naturally occurring fragrance allergens — limonene, linalool, citral, geraniol — because citrus peel, lavender, lemongrass and rose contain them. They are declared on the pack. If you react to essential oils, the Oats & Honey bar has none at all. That is the one we would point you to first.
